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Home > american express travel card > Blue Sky

Blue Sky

Redeem points to save on any airline, hotel, rental car or cruise - no blackout dates or travel restrictions
No blackout dates, no travel restrictions
No annual fee and a 0% intro APR
World class cardmember benefits including Travel Accident Insurance, Buyers Assurance Plan, and Return Protection
Balance transfer requests submitted on application receive APR of 4.99% for life of the balance.
Points good on any airline, hotel, car rental and more.
No blackout dates or travel restrictions
Express Approval. Get a decision in less than 60 seconds.

The Sky's the Limit with Blue Sky
Blue Sky from American Express is a credit card designed to unlock the world of travel rewards. Blue Sky gives you the freedom to save on any flight, hotel, rental car, or cruise-at any time, without blackout dates or travel restrictions.

Buy what you need with the Blue Sky Card, and earn one point for virtually every dollar you charge for purchases on your Card account.



  • Save $100 with 7,500 points
  • Save $200 with 15,000 points
  • Save $400 with 30,000 points, and on and on
Of course, Blue Sky gives you flexibility and independence, too. You can pay for your purchases in full or over time. There's no annual fee, a grace period of up to 20 days, and you'll get a 0.00% Intro APR for the first six months.

Your charges are covered by American Express' Fraud Protection Guarantee.

Use the American Express® Card online or off, and you won′t be held responsible for any fraudulent charges. Period. No fine print, no deductible – just pure protection, so you can shop with confidence.
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DID YOU KNOW?

The time has come to buy a house. Questions buzz around in your head like a swarm of angry bees: “How much can I borrow? How much do I have to put down? How much will my payments be?” Well, let me suggest starting with the “How much can I borrow?” question.

There are many factors you need to take into consideration when purchasing a home. First and foremost, ask yourself what size monthly payment you can afford. When determining how large a mortgage you can afford, be sure to factor in all your current expenses such as car payments, credit card bills, student loans, utilities, and the like. You may also want to factor in how much you spend on things like entertainment, eating out, and traveling. You don't want to add a mortgage payment and say goodbye to your social life. Instead, you want to make sure that you're not overextending yourself financially so you can enjoy a good quality of life.

At the present time, most lenders will allow for a whopping debt-to-income ratio of 45% - 50%. Your debt-to-income ratio is the sum of your mortgage payment and any other credit card or loan payments, divided by your monthly gross income. Lenders use this ratio to help determine your credit worthiness. All of your revolving debts along with your mortgage payment divided by your monthly gross income should not exceed the 36% - 45% debt-to-income ratio. Here’s a quick formula to help you figure out how much you can afford to put toward your monthly house payment:

--Multiply your gross monthly income by 0.45

--Subtract your non-mortgage debt payments from the result

--What's left is your allowable mortgage payment

So, if we have a couple with a combined monthly gross income of $5000 and they pay $700 a month toward two auto loans and one credit card, they would qualify for a monthly payment of $1550.

In case you don’t know, not all of your monthly housing payment goes toward your principal and interest. A portion must go toward homeowner's insurance and property taxes. I mention this because on most mortgage calculators that’ll you use, you’ll need to enter these figures to get an accurate idea of what your real monthly mortgage payment will look like, and you’ll need the numbers to figure out how much of a house you can afford.

Property taxes are typically a percentage of your home's assessed value. To calculate property taxes, local jurisdictions generally multiply the tax rate by a home's assessed value. For example, if you pay 0.5% in property taxes of the assessed value, a home assessed at $250,000 would have a yearly property tax bill of $1,250. In order to find out the tax rate, you will need to contact your county tax assessor, or a local mortgage broker or bank may be able to assist you. As for the homeowner’s insurance, your best bet is talking to a local broker or bank to get a general idea of what it is for your area. Mortgage calculators will ask you for a percentage rate sometimes and others will ask for a yearly figure. It can be confusing for a new buyer; so don't be afraid to seek a little assistance.

Figuring out how much you can afford to put toward your monthly house payment is a start. Now, you want to know how much house you can afford. There are mortgage calculators galore that will help you do this, but, as I mentioned above, they will require you to enter real estate taxes, homeowner’s insurance, and interest rates. Once you know how much you can comfortably spend a month toward a home, and you’ve gathered your tax and insurance rates, you only need an idea of what kind of interest rate you’ll get. You can probably kill three birds with one stone by trying to get rates for the taxes, insurance, and interest rate in one phone call. Once you have an idea of what your interest rate may be, you can plug in all your numbers on any of the numerous mortgage calculators on the internet to get a good idea of what you think you can afford.

Afterwards, if you like, you can call a local bank or broker and get pre-qualified to see if you’re numbers were in the ballpark. If your figures are similar, congratulations on a job well done. If your results are different, take the time to figure out why and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Remember, buying a house is one of the biggest financial decisions of your life. You owe it to yourself to be as thorough as you can. By taking the initiative to read this article, you're already ahead of the learning curve. Keep up the good work, and happy house hunting.

Q: One of my former employees has started a competing business and is calling my clients and trying to steal their business from me. Do I have any legal recourse against him? -- Brad J.

A: I hate to break this to you, Brad, but unless this former employee signed a noncompete agreement while on your payroll, there is probably very little you can do to stop him from wooing your customers. You should discuss the situation with your attorney, but unless this person is also breaking the law in some other way (using stolen trade secrets, for example) your attorney will probably concur with me.

Renegade former employees riding the free enterprise wave is one reason noncompete agreements are gaining in popularity among employers who hope to use them to help protect their business from competitive threats launched by former employees. Many employers are now demanding that key employees sign noncompetes as a stipulation of employment. While signing noncompetes usually doesn't sit well with employees who view them as potential roadblocks to their upwardly mobile career path, many businesses will not hire a key employee without his or her signature on the dotted line.

A noncompete agreement is a formal contract between you and your employees in which they promise not to use information or contacts pertinent to your business in a competing situation. In other words, they agree not to take everything they learn working for you and put it to use for someone else. This could mean going to work for a competitor or starting a competing business of their own.

While not popular with employees, noncompete agreements are a good way for employers to keep key employees on the payroll and protect the company's proprietary information. That said, do not go overboard with noncompetes: not every employee should be required to sign one. If an employee does not have access to sensitive information, customer or accounting data, or is integral to the overall success of your business, there is no need to have them sign a noncompete. The janitor, for example, poses very little threat to your business if he gets a job with a competitor. Your sales manager, on the other hand, can devastate your business by hooking his wagon to a competing horse.

Which employees should sign noncompete agreements? While the prerequisites vary from business to business, the following is a good general list. The term "employees" represents executive level, management, supervisory, and non-management personnel relative to that example:

- Employees involved in research or product development. - Employees involved in the design, fabrication, engineering, and manufacturing process. - Employees who service products made and sold by your company. - Sales and service employees who have regular contact with customers or sensitive customer information. - Employees with access to sensitive business information or trade secrets. - Most importantly, employees who have sufficient information about your business that would allow them to start a competing business.

Most business experts agree that noncompete agreements are generally a good way to protect your business. The downside is that noncompete agreements are often difficult to enforce and in some states, may not be enforceable at all. Many state courts have ruled that noncompete agreements are too restrictive on an employee's right to earn a living.

In California, for instance, noncompetes are generally only enforceable in connection with the sale of a business and not for employees. In Alabama, noncompetes are generally enforceable in only two contexts: the sale of a business and in connection with employment - but even then the enforcement requires that there be a valid interest worthy of protection.

Some states require that the noncompete be signed at the beginning of the employment relationship and will only consider the enforcement of a noncompete signed after the initial employment date if the signing of the noncompete was accompanied by a promotion, raise in pay, or other event that elevated the employee to a more important role within the company.

To be enforceable, noncompete agreements must be reasonable on three accounts: Time, geography and scope. Regarding time, you can't restrict someone from competing with you forever, so one to three years is the accepted time period for most noncompetes.

As to geography, you can enforce restriction in the general area where you conduct business, but you can not enforce the restriction beyond those boundaries. And for scope, the agreement can restrict certain actions on the part of the employee, but can't be so generally restrictive that the employee won't be able to earn a living working in the same industry in a noncompetitive position.

One interesting thing to note: noncompete agreements are not enforceable against certain "professionals," like doctors, CPAs, and lawyers (who do you think writes all those noncompetes).

At this point, Brad, the best thing you can do is contact your attorney to see if you have other grounds for suit, then contact your customers and let them know what's going on.

Explain the situation regarding the former employee, but do so calmly and resist the urge to tell them what you really think of this guy. Showing your anger to the customer is not going to help you keep their business .

Reaffirm your relationship with the client, tell him how much you value his business, remind him of your track record and level of service, then ask one simple question: What can I do to make sure your business stays with me?

Here's to your success!

Tim Knox tim@dropshipwholesale.net For information on starting your own online or eBay business, visit http://www.dropshipwholesale.net







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